We've all heard this statement. Anytime someone asks what new AR they
should buy, inevitably someone replies with the above. But is the
statement true? Can you really build a "better" AR or M4 for "less"
money? Obviously the first questions should be to ask the person to
define "better" and "less". What most people typically mean is that
they can build a carbine that, at the very least aesthetically, better
matches up to their desires by spending less money than buying a
higher-end rifle and adding on the parts that they really want. In
many cases, you have someone make a recommendation of something along
the lines of a Colt 6920 and a Daniel Defense Omega 7.0 rail only to
have a subsequent poster say that they can "build" a rifle from a
stripped lower and a JT Distributing kit and a YHM rail for "less".
Less? Certainly. But better? Not exactly.
So
what is this mythical creature "better" than, how much does it cost so
we can prove that our example is "less"? While it draws the ire of
some, the Colt 6920 is still the
standard by which all other M4-pattern carbines are judged. This is
not to say that it is perfect, nor is it to say that it is always the
best for every application, but it is built to a standard and Colt
maintains that standard over time, something few other manufacturers
do. Colt 6920s, at the time of this writing, are going for between
$1,300 and $1,400 on pre-order lists. It is important to note that
these rifles come with a detachable carry handle, sling, 2 magazines,
and GI cleaning kit.
So then, lets assume that the person asking the question is actually
looking for a carbine that meets at least some standard, and is looking
for a carbine for defensive/competition/training purposes. The dreaded
"do all" or "all purpose" carbine. What, then, are the standards that
this carbine should meet? How do we quantify "better"? The minimum
standards for any M4-pattern carbine should be: 1) 4150 (or better) barrel steel 2) HPT and MPI barrel 3) Chrome-lined chamber and bore 4) 5.56 chamber 5) Properly staked key on an M16 carrier 6) Shot peened, HPT and MPI bolt 7) Proper extractor spring/insert 8) "Milspec" (or 1.14" OD) receiver extension
Other
criteria, like M4 feedramps, "F" height front sight base, 1:7 rifling
twist, double heat shield handguards, etc. are largely either end-use
based (e.g. 1:7 twist for longer/heavier projectiles) or at least have
functional workarounds (e.g. a taller front sight post in a non-F
base). While they may be nice to have, and may be critical for some,
they are not absolutes by any means.
LESS CRITICAL ITEMS
Let's start with some of the less-critical items that don't appear on
the list above. Items that are pretty well universal across most
M4-pattern carbines these days. I'm going to leave out things like
tools, vices, action blocks, lube, etc. While these things do
definitely play a part in determining the overall cost for your first
home-built carbine, you get to keep them when you're done and all men
like tools. Think of the build as an excuse to buy more tools, don't
think of the tools as an added expense to the build (even though they
really are).
Lower Receiver To begin any build from
scratch, you're going to need yourself a stripped lower receiver. In
this day and age, literally almost any will do. There are literally
hundreds of shops selling all manner of lowers, most of which start off
life at the same foundries and have minimal differences beyond markings
and some minor machining nuances. Selection of any receiver from
Bushmaster, Rock River
Arms,
DSA, Sabre Defence,
Spike's Tactical,
Stag Arms,
Charles Daly (to name but a
few of the more common)., etc. will do. Typical cost will be $150+/-
with a variance depending on transfer fees, background checks, sales
tax, etc.
Lower Parts Kit Next you need something
to put in the lower to make the gun work. Trigger, hammer, sear, mag
release, bolt release, various pins, springs, detents, etc. How does
one know which little bits and parts to buy? Fortunately many makers
have lower parts kits, or "LPK"s available that include all these small
parts in one bag for one price. Most also include an A2 pistol grip
and the screw to hold it in. All LPKs, however, are not necessarily
created equal. There are different grades of materials for pins and
springs, there are different levels of quality control to ensure that
the pins and springs are the right size, and not all of the sellers of
LPKs are selling the same kits. I have had the best luck with LPKs
from Continental Machine and Tool, or CMT/Stag. LPKs from CMT typically
run right around $70. This brings the total for your new home-built AR
to $220.
Charging Handle & Handguards While
you may eventually opt for a free float rail or some other form of
handguard replacement, in order to come up with a basic and functional
rifle you're going to need them. A charging handle is typically $20,
with handguards going for $40. $60 plus the $220 above and you're up to
$280.
Upper Receiver Next you're going to
need an upper receiver. Flattop upper receivers dominate the market
today. Unless someone simply has a fetish for "retro" or iron sights,
there is literally no reason to build or buy an M4-pattern carbine with
a fixed carry handle. Likewise, don't get sucked in to any of the
oddball flattop uppers with built in rear sights, or non-standard
height rails, etc. This will severely limit your options down the road
if you want to change your setup. Sticking to the flattop upper
receiver, again look no further than CMT.
They offer models both with, and without, the M4 feedramp cuts. You
will want to buy an upper that matches your barrel (more about that
below). The upper will come with a forward assist and a ejection port
cover installed. They typically cost right at $100. This brings the
total to $380 so far.
Rear Sight Whether you choose a
detachable carry handle or some form of back up iron sight, or "BUIS",
for the upper, you're going to want to put something back there until
you get an optic set up, and once you do have an optic you're going to
want that BUIS. If you opt for a carry handle it can be chopped down
later to work as a fixed BUIS, or you can opt for one of any number of
fixed or folding BUIS right from the start. A Larue Tactical fixed
rear BUIS is
a very good quality product, whether standalone or behind a 1x red dot
optic, and retails for only $90. Current subtotal? $470.
CRITICAL ITEMS
This
brings us back to the items on the list. These are the items that will
help to determine the reliability and longevity of your carbine over
the course of many classes/matches yet still be ready to go should you
ever need the rifle for "serious use".
Barrel This is probably the true heart
of any carbine, and also the trickiest part to find of a high quality
that is also available by itself (i.e. not part of a complete upper).
There is also certainly nothing wrong with buying a quality barrel
already attached to an upper, in which case simply ignore the advice
above about the CMT upper receiver as you won't need it. Lewis Machine
and Tool,
or "LMT" are one such company that sells a very high-quality barrel
along with, and already assembled to, the upper. Cost is $485, meaning
that the barrel is essentially $385. Adding this to the running total
above brings you to $785.
Bolt and Carrier There is no financial
incentive for buying these parts separately, and the bolt carrier
groups, or "BCG"s, that have the right staking also generally have the
right testing of the bolt, proper extractor and spring, etc. There are
several sources for a quality M16 BCG, Lewis Machine and Tool,
Bravo Company USA,
G & R Tactical ,
but no matter where you go, they are all $130, bringing the total to
$915.
Stock and Receiver Extension While the
stock itself is not such a critical item and is subject to personal
taste, the receiver extension really should be of the milspec 1.14"
variety. Using a larger commercial receiver extension can limit your
stock choices later on should you choose to change. Either way,
commercial or military, a quality receiver extension, stock, and
internals, like that available from Bravo Company,
will cost you at least $75, and the total is now $990.
ALTERNATIVES
Pay a little more, get a little less (work) Lets rearrange the math a bit. $150 stripped lower $70 LPK $75 complete stock assembly $295
Total for a home built complete lower. Not to mention your time, and
at least a stock wrench (I know, I said forget about tools, but bear
with me here), possibly specialized tools to make the build go easier,
etc. The trick is that you can get a complete, already built, LMT
lower receiver for $330,
and some dealers offer them even lower. So, for the price of a decent
stock wrench you can skip the assembly process and just jump right in
with a complete lower. Top it off with that $485 complete LMT upper,
$130 LMT BCG, and $60 for handguards and a charging handle, $90 for
that Larue BUIS, and you've jumped way ahead of the game in terms of
assembly and only raised the total price by $35 to $1025.
Pay a little less, get a little less (QC/QA) If
you've been paying attention, you've noticed that the barrel is the
most expensive part of the whole equation at $385 (assumed). This,
then, becomes the target of where most people want to cut costs. There
are ways to do so, just as long as you understand what it is that
you're giving up when you reduce the cost. Most barrel makers will
save money by only HPT/MPI testing one representative sample from each
batch of barrels they make. Educate yourself as to what HPT (high
pressure testing, or proof loading or firing) and MPI (magnetic
particle inspection) are and decide for yourself if knowing for certain
that they have been performed on your barrel, vs. simply a
representative sample from the batch your barrel came from, is
important to you. Just be aware that "better for less" may now be
"less" but it's certainly not "better". There are a whole host of
makers that offer barrels that are only batch tested, from CMMG
with barrels in the $250-300 range, to Sabre Defence
with barrels in the
$350 range. Either way, you can save up to $135 off the price of the
rifle if you opt for the cheapest CMMG, bringing the total price of the
gun down to $855 (not counting tools and time).
CONCLUSION
And there it
is, a Carbine that is, at least where it counts, $300-$400 less than
the Colt, and if the buyer buys smart it requires no further skill or
tools to assemble than the basics that will be needed to maintain the
carbine throughout it's life. Install the handguards and sight on the
upper, pop in the pivot pin, slide in the charging handle and BCG, and
pop in the takedown pin. The rifle is done, and it only cost you
$1,000+/-.
Something else of interest is comparing your new "built" carbine to those that are commercially available as complete rifles for the same price. The specifications, quality control procedures, and assembly processes of a home assembled LMT are head and shoulders above most everything else available at that price as a complete gun. In fact, the market is pretty fat right around the $900 mark with rifles from many different makers hovering around this price. For $100 more I would gladly order the parts and pop in the pins to have a complete LMT.
P.S. I'm sure many of you are already
thinking "whoa there! that $300-400 could be spent to upgrade many of
the parts on this gun and truly make it "better" than the Colt. This
is well true. However whatever parts and pieces you choose to spend
that extra money on is entirely up to you. Do you keep the basically
stock parts and use the money for a red dot sight? An Aimpoint C3 in mount can be had for just $450, which is just $50 more. Or you
could opt for a different pistol grip and stock. Or a free float rail
system like the Daniel Defense Omega for $250 and a
$50 vertical grip to stick on it. Or ammo. Or be well on your way to
paying the tuition for a quality carbine course. The choice is clearly
yours. Personally, I'd take my very basic, very functional carbine,
add a sling, buy some magazines and ammo, and get myself to a training
class. You will see all the parts under the sun on other student's
guns, and most of them will be willing to let you fondle and/or shoot
their guns during the break. You'll come back from the class not only
having a better idea of which upgrades you want, but knowing how to
actually use the carbine that you just spent $1,000 creating!
